Chamfered log
After some brain work and a lot of measuring we got the lay out for the floor marked. And have come up with our plan of attack. Each log needs to be chamfered 1/4″ on all 4 sides and on the ends. We will use a router to do the chamfering.
The first course of logs needs to over hang the sub floor by 3/4″ to allow for log siding fascia to be applied to the rim Joist. As we place the logs we are drilling through them for the electrical wiring to be run through. This is where the plug ins will go above on the next course of logs. We will also leave rough openings for the doors.
Timberloc Screws
On the ends I am letting 8″ over hang on the short walls, for the butt & pass lap. We are attaching the logs to the sub-floor with 10″ timber loc screws.
Chamfered log
the logs are ready to go!
3/4″ overhang
counter sunk TimberLoc screw
The guys
Why chamfer top and bottom sides? I have also seen in other log homes where the screws that are used to secure the logs together are spring loaded so it allows for shrinkage. Are you putting anything between the timbers for sealing them? While chamfering the bottom side makes them look good, I cant help but wonder if that will allow water to be directed towards the cracks and subsequently into the joints… leaving the bottom side square would force the water to drip straight down…
We chamfer the top and the bottom so we enough space for the chinking. The chinking is very plyable after it dries so it seals the spaces to prevent water leakage and expands and contracts with the log through seasonal weather changes. The screws we use do allow for some shrinkage, though, since our logs are kiln dried Oak there just isn’t enough shrinkage to be concerned about.